By Kelly Frances

Editor’s Note: The writer, a Canadian, lives and works in Seoul, South Korea, but Bangkok looms large among her most memorable earlier stays in Asia.

BANGKOK, Thailand – Countless travelers roam along the crowded alleys of the infamous Soi Cowboy (Cowboy Road), all curious about Southeast Asia’s most notorious street. No visit to Bangkok is considered complete without a tour of the “Soi”. What makes this tiny road worthy of its mighty reputation?

Situated between Sukhumvit Soi 21 (also called Soi Asoke) and Soi 23, the surprisingly small Soi Cowboy has about 45 bustling bars within walking distance of the Sheraton and the Millennium Hilton.

The street’s first lounge opened in 1975. That one, The Gold Label, became a “seminal bar” in every sense. It was the first to target sex tourism, the first multi-level bar and the first “A-Go-Go and Show” bar.

Soon the Soi gained a regular expatriate crowd. Within three years, The Gold Label faded, replaced by smaller bars in the typical Thai go-go style. Women in bikinis solicited customers and served alcohol outside. The interiors often featured a stage occupied by topless or nude men or women wearing numbers, which is technically illegal in Thailand.

What else can one expect from Soi Cowboy? At first glance, it looks like little more than a blinking, crowded alley with a pseudo-Las Vegas feel and a hodgepodge of foreigners wandering like eager children in a candy store. Often, an elephant walking with its mahout adds to the cluttered, chaotic atmosphere typical of Thai nightlife.

A growing number of businesses are hidden among the many layers of bars and hostels. Size isn’t everything, and the curiosity factor, recognition that “mysterious things happen here”, heightens the hype.

Expect some aggressive approaches. At first, there’s a strong aroma of jet fuel and jasmine incense. This strange perfume is accompanied by eager ladies and lady-boys promoting their wares. Often bar-workers boldly approach potential patrons on the street (maybe dragging them inside or showing their “stuff” in unsubtle ways).

The scene alone justifies a visit. Ladies wear kitschy costumes and stage makeup (applied by a makeup artist to ensure everyone looks appealing). Some bars adopt pop-culture themes, like the naughty schoolgirl, glamazon or girl-next-door cheerleader.

Popular watering holes include the Long Gun, Tilac, Baccara, Midnite, Our Place, Spice Girls, Dollhouse, Apache Coyote, Country Road and Kiss. Energy runs high, but it’s a strange vibe that sells only in a place for thrill-seekers.

The Apache Coyote is a run-of-the-mill go-go bar with a laid-back feel and a few friendly expatriates willing to offer advice between the showings of girls in bikinis swaying on stage to music by the likes of Britney Spears. Drinks cost 70 baht (beware of the definition of Happy Hour, which means little on this street). “Drinks for ladies” go for a whopping 140 baht. Such prices are typical. The liquor is pricey, and the prices double if a lady is involved, all part of how the bars generate revenue.

Local people told me there’s a regular pool tournament at the Country Road Lounge near one end of the road. They said the best grub is at the Dutch Food Adventure, a large European/Western restaurant with rather expensive food, but a large and variable menu.

So-called “sexy picture” slot games, often played by the dancers on breaks, line the strip. Yet there are shrines and spirit houses too. Nothing prevents the Thais from adhering to spiritual obligations.

Most bars have aspects of a constantly moving circus with bored performers. You can’t help but feel sorry for the ever-wiggling ladies who dance for hours, waiting for their numbers to be called by customers keen to pay for their drinks and company. Many of the ladies look lackluster and a little lost. Usually at least one girl on stage dislikes being looked at and isn’t sure how to move her body to meet the “industry demands”. Such girls are young, awkward and probably from small towns in Northern Thailand. Their insecurities are laid bare to crowds of adjudicators who see them as products.

A German named Mike, a lounge manager for 20 years, says sales in the district have fallen 40 per cent from the golden era (circa 2004) and that political unrest and airport shutdowns hurt terribly. He worries about the future of Thailand’s nightlife business.

With the mixture of pretty young things in risqué attire, cheery bar conversation and liquor-induced drama, any trip to Soi Cowboy opens eyes. If nothing else, a visit builds understanding of the street’s sobering significance for Thai tourism. It’s a part of reality for the Thai people, who often take a pragmatic attitude.

Note: In 2007, millions of visitors to Thailand spent an average of about US$120 a day each on prostitution. For child prostitution, Thailand ranks third worst in the world. (Tourism Authority of Thailand statistics)

Photos by Joe Waller
(The photographer used a special camera to capture Soi Cowboy as it looks to intoxicated visitors emerging from its exotic bars.)

ARCHIVES