By Lynley Capon

On the train journey from Singapore to Kuala Lumpur, expect a comfortable ride, but not outstanding scenery. You’ll pass through nice Singaporean suburbs and then cross the causeway into Malaysia.

Suddenly, everything changes. The big apartment buildings need paint, the town development looks less orderly and the land beside the railway has slums and shanties. Regardless of the border post, you know the moment you’re no longer in Singapore.

From Johor all the way to Kuala Lumpur, the train passes through palm plantations, 435 kilometres worth. Occasionally, you bisect run-down little towns, homes to the plantation workers. Some undeveloped jungle reminds me of the “bush” back home in New Zealand.

My husband Peter and I end the six-hour journey (entertained by Harry Potter movies) at the central Kuala Lumpur station. Immediately, the place’s modernity and efficiency impress us. It’s well signposted, and we easily find information to help on the next stage of our journey.

Having decided to “do” Kuala Lumpur for a day, we discover a good rail system to all parts of the city, similarly strong bus service and a monorail through central areas. The original central station has become a suburban rail station with hints of British colonialism lingering on the beautiful old building.

In the city-centre, the highlights turn out to be the Kuala Lumpur Tower, used for communications purposes, and the twin Petronas Towers. The former stands amid a wonderful nature reserve. Meandering past ferns and trees on a steady climb to the tower’s base proves pleasing.

The tower’s viewing area offers an amazing 360-degree panorama and even a close look at the Petronas Towers. With Kuala Lumpur in a basin ringed by hills, smog lingers. A lot of construction proceeds everywhere. Looking down, we see highways and more skyscrapers nearing completion.

This year, Malaysia celebrates 50 years of nationhood, so the related flags and banners hang in public places among the many Indians, Chinese and Malays in the multiracial country.

“I admit that it’s not easy for a multiracial population to live in peace and harmony…,” said Sultan Mizan Zainal Abidin, the new king crowned as we visited the city. “We must maintain this precious unity to the best we can. Co-existing requires us to understand, respect and be tolerant of each other.”

Malaysia’s government hopes that by 2020 the country will gain recognition as a “developed” nation. An amazing new international airport and a new administrative city along the lines of Brasilia and Canberra represent substantial progress.

After collecting surface impressions of Kuala Lumpur -- the nice cars, motorbikers wearing their jackets back to front, majority women in headscarves, shopping centres and Indian restaurants – Peter and I board a suburban train and depart.

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Piercing the sky, the Petronas Towers
dwarf most of Malaysia's capital.


The Kuala Lumpur Tower stands
amid a wonderful nature reserve.


Distant horizons beckon to tower visitors.


A motorbiker wears his jacket back to front.


Below the Petronas Towers, a multiracial
population hopes for 'peace and harmony'.

(Photos by Lynley Capon)