DIRECTOR NO LONGER LAMMA'S LEADING FAN?
By John Cairns
YUNG SHUE WAN, Lamma Island, Hong Kong – For Lamma Island-based film-maker Alba Rayton, a long labor of love has ended in grief. Instead of the excitement and triumph that she anticipated when preparing for screenings of her new documentary, Lamma, My Island, at European film festivals, she's left with tears instead.
On September 25, two of the 30-minute movie's biggest stars, Alba's beloved three-year-old pet dogs Guapa and Ginger, consumed tainted food that a mysterious “dog poisoner” had left near popular footpaths. Guapa quickly died. Days later, Ginger followed.
At least 16 Lamma dogs have died in an outbreak of poisoning cases. Others, seriously ill, look likely to drive the death toll higher.
The poisoning grieves Alba and dampens her enthusiasm for the documentary. She devoted much of the film to praising Lamma as a tropical paradise full of friendly, caring people, a utopia that she and her husband John chose as an ideal place to live.
“Definitely, the poisoning incident has changed our feelings towards Lamma,” Alba said. “But it's like when an earthquake or tsunami hits a country. The authorities need days, maybe months, to learn the full extent of the damage. That's how I feel. We need time. The only thing we know for sure is that we've lost the dogs that brought us joy and that the culprit is a malicious person from the island where we chose to live.”
In one positive aspect, “I also can say that the community spirit, the caring-for-each-other attitude seen in the documentary, has been demonstrated to us all over again by so many neighbors and friends.”
Will the Raytons remain on Lamma? “The future for us here is something that we need to re-examine once we know more about the damage this has caused us,” Alba said. “We would have difficulty to be confident that nothing similar would happen again.”
Ironically, much of the documentary focuses on how Lamma's people and dogs live together in idyllic harmony. “We love dogs,” yells an enthusiastic group in one scene. Obviously, that's no unanimous opinion. Someone on Lamma detests dogs.
Alba, who directed the film but also appears onscreen as a narrator and tour guide, tells viewers, “Now this is looking more like a ‘dogumentary’. I'm very happy.”
Lamma, My Island will play at the Marbella International Film Festival in Spain (October 14-16). Then it goes to Switzerland's Lucerne International Film Festival (October 19-23).
Colorful, lively and pleasing, the film gives a delightful introduction (complete with zooming-in on maps) to anyone unfamiliar with Lamma. Residents and regular visitors will smile at the constant reminders of what they like about the place.
Opening scenes depict the frantic rush-rush attitudes in Hong Kong's Central Business District. Then a short Lamma-ferry ride leads to instant relaxation. “Over here, it's another life.”
Dogs doze on walkways. A familiar, bearded man unloads ferry cargo. Arriving passengers stroll toward the Main Street's shops and restaurants. “It's just like you've stepped into another world.”
Here, people can take their time, inhale fresher air and enjoy nature's vibrant colors. Since Lamma has no cars, trucks, buses or motorcycles, folks of all ages walk or ride bicycles. “It's a nice place because the children can run around and they don't need to be scared about getting knocked over by a car.”
“The island is known for its Bohemian-influenced lifestyle – with writers, musicians, artists and other creative people.” It has “some incredibly, genuine, interesting, clever people here – I mean, more clever people here than I've ever met in my life, actually.”
What could sound more inviting? “People are really down-to-earth here. They are very, very friendly, and they open their arms to everybody from all over the world.”
The film turns into an all-out celebration of nonchalant, outlying-island ways. It’s joyful -- full of bright flowers, friendly greetings, lively music, dancing, parties and feasts. There's even a roof-top wedding (for humans) and a beach party (for dogs). One interviewee proclaims, “I feel like I live on a holiday.”
A few mysteries get solved, like the meaning of “Lamma karma” and “the Lamma twitch”. And why do Lamma Islanders often panic at midnight?
Momentarily, the documentary turns into an adventure story on a late-night sampan ride back from the city. “You go on a little sampan and across through all the tankers to get home.... It's a channel full of big tankers. If the weather's not great, it can be a bit shaky, and you're in a very small boat.”
Other highlights include a meticulous, two-minute depiction of building a bamboo opera-house (three-weeks-worth of work), some hard-fought dragon-boat races and a display of historical pictures by veteran photographer Bob Davis.
A few cats make cameo appearances. Using common sense, long-time animal-welfare advocate John Wedderburn tells why the trap, neuter and release (TNR) of homeless animals controls their numbers much better than trying to kill them. “When we started, there were over 700 stray cats in this Yung Shue Wan area. By desexing only, not killing any, just by desexing and putting them back, we've reduced the number to less than 100. The few cats left are considered to be village assets. People like having them.”
John tries to convince Hong Kong's government to apply a TNR policy to homeless dogs: “I've been trying to batter at the government about this for 12 years. I keep hoping that soon, maybe at the next meeting, they'll agree.”
Even Lamma's snakes, some poisonous, enjoy appearing in the film, judging by a leave-little-to-the-imagination love-scene with two serpents writhing passionately. “We live in a jungle, you know.... We're surrounded by trees. It's a real jungle.”
One big complaint arises – why isn't the film longer? It ends too quickly, bringing a sense of disappointment as Alba strolls on a beach and the credits begin to roll. Having arrived on such a pleasant isle, who in the world wants to leave after only 30 minutes?
Alba likes to end her films with someone walking on a beach. The same happened in her previous movie, Masks. Next time, she needs to find a different way to say goodbye.
Surely, every place, even Lamma, has its problems. The film mentions poverty. “...we’ve got people who are homeless. You will walk down the street and see several people here who quite clearly live out of a couple of plastic bags.”
Despite also hinting at the addictions that ravage some people, Lamma, My Island sidesteps the unpleasantness, choosing a different angle. “There's a real sense of community here. People care about each other. People take care of each other. People love each other. They become friends.”
Actually some of Lamma's woes (not just dog-poisoning) have worsened of late. The documentary neglects to mention escalating rents, ambitious property-developers and local people who dispose of old furniture and appliances by pushing them down slopes and into bushes.
While dog-poisoning represents the worst of human behavior, Lamma, My Island reflects much of the best. It's full of typical magical moments that can make life wonderful. Most Lamma residents regard such moments as vastly more typical than the deeds of someone trying to kill neighbors' pets.
Although the precious “harmony” between people and dogs lies shattered, Lamma, My Island, still deserves loud woofs of approval. It gets much more right than wrong.
“It's everybody's island, and that makes it my island.”
“What name would I give to Lamma? Home! Lamma is home.”
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