Who could imagine a place more pleasing than a seaside village in the tropics, one warmed by bright sunshine, caressed by gentle breezes and seldom swarmed by tourists?

The description perfectly fits Mo Tat Wan on Hong Kong’s outlying Lamma Island. Linked to the big city by infrequent ferries, this serene village lies over the hills, separated from the more bustling Lamma communities of Yung Shue Wan (a 90-minute hike away) and Sok Kwu Wan (30 minutes away).

Even the notorious smokestacks of Hongkong Electric’s power station on northern Lamma stay hidden behind the hills, unseen to individuals happily strolling along Mo Tat Wan’s beach. It’s a magical setting – maybe magical enough to warp the laws of geography.

A prominent sign at the edge of the sand gives directions to “all places”. Its single arrow indicates a left turn up steep steps and into the hills.

Almost everywhere else in Asia has destinations to the north, south, east and west. Could a tranquil paradise like Mo Tat Wan really represent the end of the earth?

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